Travel to Luxembourg’s Villages
Clervaux Castle, Heinersheid Church, Sure River, Esch Lake and More
St. Maruice Benedictine Abbey,St. Willibrod Basilica and Loretto Chapel are among Gutland region highlights in Luxembourg.
Travelers who prefer small towns to big cities find that Luxembourg is one of their favorite European destinations. Since it’s only about 38 miles (61 km) across its widest point, and just 54 miles from north to south (about 87 km), it’s possible to explore most of the villages in two or three days. Most of these picturesque hamlets lie in the northern region, since 91 percent of the people live in cities in the fertile southern region called Gutland (Good Land).
Clervaux
At Clervaux, its castle is the town's centerpiece. The oldest part of the fortress was probably built in the 12th century, but the castle was completely destroyed in the Ardennes offensive of December 1944. Now restored, it contains several fascinating exhibits including photos by the American photographer, Edward Steichen, who was born in Luxembourg. Among other Clervaux treasures are the church of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Maurice and the elaborately decorated ceiling of Loretto Chapel. The nearby Heinersheid village church is noted for its polychromed madonna and the Troisvierges parish church for its baroque high altar.
Sure Valley and Ecternach
Another great village-hopping area is along the Sure River Valley, which flows across Luxembourg’s mid-section before forming a portion of the boundary with Germany.
Heart of the eastern Sure Valley is Echternach, oldest settlement in the country. During summer, the area (it's called Little Switzerland) swarms with vacationers, but cultural activities such as the International Music Festival and village folk evenings go a long way to compensate for the crowds. The most impressive structure in town is the Basilica of St. Willibrod with its multiple spires and towers. Remains of fortifications near the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul date back to late Roman and Frankish times.
A few miles from Echternach, Beaufort is a sun-dappled spot that's not much more than a photogenic wide spot in the road. Nearby lie the ruins of a knight's castle, foundations of which date from the late 12th century. From the first of April through mid-October, guided tours show visitors what life was like in the middle ages. At Christnach, careful architectural restoration has preserved the authentic character of the village. Quantities of copper and silver coins found in the remains of a nearby villa suggest that this was a Roman settlement in the 1st to 4th centuries.
Esch-sur-Sure
At the western terminus of the Sure River, Esch-sur-Sure is cradled in the Ardennes forest with the river meandering between it and the steep rock cliffs. It's an ideal little town for strolling, with narrow streets, river paths and 10th century castle ruins to explore.
Less than a mile outside Esch-sur-Sure, a dam spans the valley to form Esch Lake. Each of the villages near Esch Lake has its own attractions. At Kaundorf, a chapel stands near the spring credited with a miracle in the 8th century when blind St. Pirminus could see after he bathed his eyes in its waters.
On the lake's east side, the 15th and 16th century frescoes in the tiny gothic church in Rindschleiden are considered the finest in Luxembourg. The remarkable scenes include a kneeling angel representing St. Matthew; St. George slaying the dragon and the coronation of the Virgin Mary.
The largest and best-restored of Luxembourg's medieval strongholds is the castle at Vianden. Architectural treasures in the picturesque village include a row of old houses where the country's nobility lived in the 15th century called the Grand Rue, an apothecary shop dating back to 1475 and the Church of the Holy Trinity with its superb wooden altar. For a spectacular view of the valley, take the six-minute ride by chair-lift to Belvedere Summit.
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